Drafting The A Line Skirt
From Design It Yourself Clothes. Pages 60-65
I drafted my front pattern piece first.
I cut a piece of paper about 8 to 10 inches wider than half of my hipline measurement. I also made the paper a few inches higher than my desired length.
Then I folded it in half.
The pattern is always drafted on a folded half, a quarter pattern.
Your lines will be drawn in a quarter of the measurements of your actual measurements.
I used my low waist for my waistline. The low waist is around the belly button.
My low waist is unfortunately a lot wider than my high waist!
I measured down to the widest part of my hip from there.
That will be the distance you will draw between your hip and waist line.
I drew 1/4 of the measurements of my low waist, hip, and the sweep line on my hem.
I made my sweep line 2 inches wider than the hipline measurement creating a slight a line.
I added 1/4 inch like the book recommends to all of my drawn lines to add some ease.
The ease will total 1 inch throughout the skirt.
I added the 1 inch wide by 3 inch long dart at the midline in the waist. Because I made a 1/2 inch dart, I had to add 1/2 inch to the side seam to make up that difference. I measured up 1/2 inch also to create the new waistline and side seam edge.
I used my waist curve ruler to draw the new side seam.
Since I lifted my waist 1/2 inch I needed to raise my hem 1/2 inch.
I used my curved ruler to blend the new line.
You can just draw this by hand if you don’t have a ruler.
I drew 5/8 inch seamlines and a 1 inch hem.
I traced my front pattern piece to another piece of folded paper.
I made the dart 2 inches longer and 1/4 inch wider as explained in the book. The longer and wider dart is for your butt!
Next up Friday, I will be sewing up my muslin, adjusting the fit and then perfecting my pattern.
I can already tell that my side pattern lines look a little odd on my waist. It looks sort of weird from here. Maybe that ruler isn’t so good after all, or I just don’t know how to use it properly.
We’ll see!
Okay, I’ll begin to draft mine tonight. i took all my measurements yesterday. I am soooo glad you are doing this!
I can’t wait to try this! This book is on my Christmas list, but I’m watching and learning from your blog. This is great. 🙂
So, here are my questions thus far. Under your section called “drafting dart” do you measure up the half inch so that you can square off? If I leave my side seam length the same, I end up with a (low) waist measurement that is the same as or slightly wider than my hip measurement and can’t square off. My angle from the hip point to the waist point is obtuse rather than acute. Does that make any sense? I’m having trouble explaining this. I can square and smooth the hem, but not the waist. Otherwise, I’m coming along fine so far. I’ll leave another comment if I hit another tough spot, though.
I measured up the half inch to create the waistline curve. Even if I didn’t add a dart I would measure uop 1/2 inch. If your waist and hip measurements are close you don’t need a dart. Try removing the dart.
Thank you! I’ll give it a try.
Ok well the pattern I drafted *looks* right. haha We’ll see how it goes! I’m a little unsure if I’ve squared up the waist as directed, I’m new with this ruler too.
Rachel
Has anyone figured out how to “square up” the waistline and hem? I understand that we want 90 degree angles but I’m unsure if I’m drafting this correctly.
Yikes, I need to really catch up! 🙁 I just managed to borrow the book from the library….