When I was making a bridal gown I took a class from master couture sewing expert Susan Khalje. I learned a technique from her which I will share with you. Have you ever had problems hemming sheer fabrics like organza, chiffon, or cotton batiste? You can’t sew a normal hem because it will show through and look bad and a serger hem looks mass produced. Mrs. Khalje doesn’t think very highly of sergers, I might add. I for one have a rather unfriendly relationship with mine! One method of hemming sheer fabrics is a rolled hem which is done by hand but this tiny machine hem method is a faster and easier method. For some reason I have never read about this method in any of my sewing books. I believe it is a couture secret. I hope she doesn’t mind my giving it away!
1. Start with a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Fold over the hem 3/8 of an inch and iron to the wrong side.
2. Now stitch with about a 2mm length stitch with a very thin machine needle as close as you can to the fold. About 1/8 of an inch from the fold.
3. Take some small scissors and trim as close as you can to the stitch line you just made.
4. Finger fold the hem over one more time as small as you can, between about 1/8 and 1/4 of an inch to cover the raw edge and stitch again. The stitch line will almost be at the hem fold and will barely be noticeable.
5. This is how it will look from the right side. As you can see from the tape measure it’s about 1/8 of an inch.